Welcome back to PranzoLA! This week, I introduced myself to a lovely new restaurant in Beverly Hills named Il Covo. I really didn’t know what to expect heading into this unremarkable structure, except for the fact that the name translates loosely into “Den of Thieves.” With that image in mind, I entered the sun lit, sultry spot off of bustling 3rd Ave completely caught off guard. One of the best patio sections I’ve seen in Los Angeles in some time accompanied by the many fireplaces and luxuriousness of the inside, you’re surrounded by the feeling of being in someone’s home rather than a restaurant. They offer an unique Italian-American menu, a full bar, and cozy ambiance. Combine that with great food, and you’ve got a perfect dining environment, which makes this a great date spot. Although it was not a flawless meal, we had a delicious time at this little hideaway.
First off, I was disappointed in the timing of our meal. Everything came out at the same time, our appetizer conspicuously last, which is obviously unnecessary. But once I had a couple sips of wine and began to eat, I relaxed and focused in on the task at hand. I began with a zesty, light white, the Vermentino di Gallura, from Sardinia, which was a perfect accompaniment. A basket of flatbread was brought out after we ordered our meal, which commenced the curious array of dishes we were about to be served. Nice and hot, the flatbread was delicious, yet unusual for an Italian restaurant, which made it memorable. But as everything did come out together, I’ll describe the meal in the order I would have preferred.
Our opener was a choice off of an eventful list of crostini: Tuna with Radishes and Mint. The tuna was high quality canned tuna, extremely typical and revered in Italian cuisine and a nice surprise to enjoy over here in America. Unfortunately, the crostini came out differently than described on the menu, substituting black olives for the mint, but it was absolutely delicious. Since it was the last to appear and I had already accepted the timing situation, I didn’t have a problem with the mixup or menu change or whatever happened there. The bread was perfectly crunchy, the radishes crisp, and the tuna was smooth and delightful.
Next up was the Artichoke Salad, one of my favorite Italian dishes and one I like to order when I’m out to a new restaurant that offers it. They can turn out very similarly, but once you get an amazing one, it’ll keep you coming back for more. This was an enjoyable version of this classic plate: raw artichokes, luxurious slices of Parmagiano, and a light, acidic dressing that brought out the brightness of the greens against the artichokes.
The pizza we ordered was the special of the day and oh my, was it special. On a thin, almost naan-like crust, we were served a ricotta, mozzarella, heirloom broccolini, and green garlic pizza that was so original that I almost hesitate to call it a pizza. Nice and firm with a cracker crust, the dough itself had a striking prominence of cumin that really offset the individual flavor in the toppings. I was extremely impressed by this flatbread, I will definitely be coming back to try some of their other variations in the future.
Finally, the real star of pranzo, we came to dessert. It’s infrequent I order dessert. I’m generally coerced by whomever I’m with to opt for a sweet closer to the meal, but today, I wanted it. And it was a Sea Salt and Nutella tart with a Pistachio paste and Vanilla gelato. Perfectly warm and flaky, this dessert stunned me into eating the whole thing before I even had a chance to put my spoon down. The ratio of salt to Nutella, warm chocolate to cold vanilla, the crunch between the crust and pistachi, it was all just sublime. I would undoubtedly come back just for this dessert, but maybe without people that expect me to share.
Undoubtedly, this venture caught me off guard from the minute I decided to lunch there, but sometimes we need little reminders of how fun and delicious the unexpected can be. Romantic yet personable, dim yet radiant, Il Covo offers an experience of contrast as well as a truly singular meal.
I had lunch there the first day it opened. After reading your description of the special pizza, I must return.
ReplyDeleteThanks...Elizabeth